Painting with light can leave you with interesting results. This image was created as a long exposure, of approximately 60 secs. It was set up in total darkness, with test shots with the internal lights on, done for the purpose of guaging what time they needed to be switched on at the end of the shot. (Set up the camera in the dark. Set the aperture, and then turn on the lights, timing how long they are on, then turning them off to see if the area is properly exposed. Keep testing until you get a combination you are happy with, that gives you a properly exposed image scene.) The idea is that we are working in the dark doing our drawing, then once the light drawing is done, we want as quick as possible exposure to complete the scene without having any movement in the shot.
Set the camera onto Bulb mode. After setting up the shot with the lights on, which included puttin the subject in position, the lights were turned off, and the shutter opened using a cable release. Using a penlight torch, I drew the shapes around the subject (they can be what ever you like), pointing the torch directly towards the camera at all times. If you do not keep it pointed at the camera, the light becomes faded. (when I move to a different spot in the shot, I cover the light with my hand). I then returned to the camera and had the upstairs light switched on for one to two seconds (this will depend on your testing though), then I switched the downstairs light on for 2 to 3 secs (again determined by your test times), then in total darkness, closed the shutter on the camera to get this result. The film speed was approx ISO 400, with an aperture of approx f8. You will need to do experimental shots for your own situation to determine what time you need the lights on for at the end, and the aperture to suit. You can also draw around the subject, like a stencil, then take them out of the scene before you turn on the lights to expose the room, and you will end up with an outline of the body created by the torch. You need to allow yourself at least 30 seconds to complete this in total, so you will need to ensure that there is no, or at least minimal light, or you will find that there may be too much exposure.

This image was done in my studio. After carving a pumpkin for Halloween, I decided to try this out. I used a black backdrop, with some low power side lights, and put a black hood on my head. I put a candle in the pumpkin for an eirie glow. I have slightly darkened the shot in the hooded area in photoshop, because it did pick up some light in the shot and exposed ever so slightly.
The key point to remember is that in photography a subject requires light to expose properly. As long as there is light, your image will expose. The amount of light though will determine how long it takes to expose. I use black in my creative stuff because black in a photo is "black" and is like unexposed film or sensor area in a shot, which lets you do multiple shots on one frame without any false ghostly effects (unless thats want you want). As with all my work, test shots were done to determine the appropriate mix of aperture and shutter to give me an acceptable exposure. This shot was done with the camera set on manual mode, the film setting at 400, aperture of f6 and a shutter of approx 1 second. This was based on the lighting level I was using.

Lightning is a stunning subject, and relatively easy to capture, if you follow some basic rules.
I use a camera set to ISO100 for the film type, and a cable release with the camera set on bulb mode, which means the shutter can be held open for as long as the cable is pushed.
I use an aperture of f9, and a wide angle lense. Prefocus the camera on the manual focus setting, to infinity, with a part turn back from that point. After getting a general idea of the direction to point the camera, which I find is at the front or rear of a storm, I hold the shutter open for approximately 3 to 5 minutes, dependant on the amount of, and closeness of the lightning. (If you haven't realised, I do my shots at night). Sometimes you can shoot off many frames and get nothing. This shot, on a film camera was as it turned out without any cropping. As explained previously you need light to form an image, so be aware of other light soucres that may be in your shot, and blow out (over lighten) your final image.
Lastly, be very careful. People have been killed by lightning just going for a walk, and we are hunting the stuff so there is a risk to be wary of.

This image was shot in a lane way in Melbourne, the week after going on the Haunted Melbourne tour run by the Haunted Bookshop, McKillop St in Melbounre (very interesting tour indeed). I did some test shots to get the correct aperture setting for an exposure of approximately 45 seconds. I set up the camera on a tripod, with it in manual mode, fired off the shutter, and walked into the scene for approx 15 to 20 seconds, stood very still in the pose, then walked back out again. The rule to remember here is that a subject must be "still" in your shot for the full time of the recommended exposure, or it will come out as a ghostly shot like this. Walking in and out of the scene did not show up on the image due to that factor also. Dark clothing also helps, as it does not reflect light that would allow it to expose easily. For a couple of other shots taken, a young couple walked through the scene, but because they kept moving, and the exposure time was so long, there was no trace of them in the shot.

This is typical of a night shot. For my landscapes, I use an aperture of f22 where ever possible. I use a very sturdy tripod to lessen the chance of camera vibration, and a cable release to activate the shutter. This shot was taken in manual mode, with an aperture of f13, with a shutter speed of 30 seconds, the film setting was ISO 100. Because it is a time exposure, people that walked through the scene were not exposed on the sensor as they were not stationary in the shot for the appropriate time required to expose them. When doing shots at night, you must be aware of the lighting in the scene, as this can lead to blowing out (overexposing), areas of your image, which can lead to disappointment.

Photography of creeks and rivers is a rewarding experience. The majority of my shots involve wading up streams to capture the best possible angles. I shoot with a film speed of ISO 100, and as much as possible, I use an aperture of f22. I set the camera on manual control mode for the aperture and shutter settings, then once the aperture is chosen, I select the correct shutter speed as determined by the camera meter. I shoot early morning, before sunrise, or on overcast days. This reduces the level of light, and therefore increases the shutter speed to give the cotton wool , milky effect, that can only be acheived with shutter speeds of greater than 3 to 4 seconds. It also reduces the contrasty conditions that bright light will give in the forest environment. Some of my shots have used shutter speeds of up to 30 seconds. I use a very sturdy tripod, which is critical in the flowing water, so as to not allow camera movement and therefore giving you a very sharp image. The only manipulation applied after, is to increase contrast slightly, as well as hue and saturation, which I do in Adobe Lightroom. I shoot in RAW mode only for this, which gives me the maximum file information, and does not result in any loss of image quality after alterations and on conversion to JPEG. You need to be careful in these conditions with water depths and currents, and also be careful with the environment as well.